It can be frustrating to try pore strips and T-zone treatments over and over, only to see the same dark spots return. Still, picking at them or trying to pop them will not solve the problem.
That is because these marks are not actually blackheads at all, according to TheDailyDerm YouTube channel, which is run by dermatologists in partnership with skincare brand CeraVe.
When this mixture reaches the surface, it oxidizes and turns dark, which is why it looks like a blackhead. While the appearance may be similar, the cause is different.
These spots are known as sebaceous filaments, which are thin, hair-like structures that help move natural oils, also called sebum, from inside the pore to the surface of the skin.
Sebaceous filaments work differently, as they allow oil to travel to the surface. That is why squeezing them often produces a long, string-like thread instead of the thicker, waxy material that comes from a blackhead.
Because of this key difference, they require a different approach when it comes to treatment and removal.
So, what can actually help?
The expert said that a chemical exfoliant, such as salicylic acid, can break down oil and dead skin inside the pore and clean it more thoroughly. Another option is to visit a dermatologist, who can use specialized tools to safely empty the pores by hand.
Dermalogica’s Education Manager, Victoria, also shared guidance on the brand’s website, noting that these dots are a normal part of how skin functions.
She said: “It’s important to note that this is a normal function of the skin. Pores aren’t blocked or clogged in the same way as when you have a blackhead. Sebaceous filaments do vary in colour and may appear as a grey, light brown or yellow ‘spot’.”
Victoria explained that acid-based cleansers and exfoliants can be effective, and she also recommended clay-based masks, which help pull excess oil from the skin.
